Triumph Spitfire online resources

I have been doing a lot of research and thinking about upgrading my 1975 Triumph Spitfire lately, so I thought I would share all the links I have found.

Tips for Maintaining and Modifying Your Triumph Spitfire
http://www.oocities.com/motorcity/speedway/1080/spitgarage.html

Front Crossmember Repair (1977 Spitfire)
http://www.snic-braaapp.org/isptxmbr.htm

Sun visor replacement
http://www.autosunvisors.com/
If you want to make your own sun visor for your spit, look how these guys do it.

How to Change the Brake Pads on a Spitfire
http://www.ehow.com/how_5858905_change-brake-pads-spitfire.html

Rebuilding a Zenith Carburetor
http://www.acbs-bslol.com/Gadgets/Zenith.htm

Air Shocks for a Triumph Spitfire
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/airshocks-spitfire.shtml

Wiring diagrams for Triumph Spitfire
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html

Gas spring info for assisting opening a Spitfire/GT6 Bonnet
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/gasstruts/index.html

Paul Geithner’s Triumph Spitfire
Links, References & Technical Information
http://auskellian.com/paul/links.html

Driveshaft Joint Replacement
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Hints%20and%20Tips/UJ%20Replacement.htm

Tuning data
http://users.ameritech.net/kevba/triumph_.html#Tune

Triumph Carburetor Overhaul
http://buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

Engine restoration (with pictures)
http://www.eighmy.com/spitfire/

1975 triumph spitfire

PRI STAGE ONE MOTOR, 2001 harley deuce carb, s/s teardrop air cleaner

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Spitfire Carburetors – What type of oil do I add to the dashpot?

Here’s a great explanation from John in the forum:

An SU or Stromberg carb is a “Constant velocity” device.   It changes the diameter of the orifice at the fuel jet, so as to maintain a constant air/fuel mixture, by allowing the piston to rise and fall in response to the changing demands of the engine, moving the needle in the jet to allow more or less fuel to escape into the changing air flow.  (NB do not confuse ‘flow’ with ‘velocity’.)
On acceleration, the carburettor piston rises as the engine draws in more air.   But for acceleration a slightly richer mixture is desirable, so the damper/dashpot slows the rise.   Until it reaches equilibrium, the orifice is narrower, the air velocity is greater and a slight excess of fuel is drawn into the air flow, to provide the richer mixture.

The carburettor is designed so that with engine oil in the dashpot this change is optimum for the majority of drivers. If, however, you want to achieve maximum fuel economy and drive with featherweight boots on, accelerating and braking seldom and then lightly, a thinner dashpot oil will produce less enrichment on acceleration and less fuel consumption.    If you are a hot-shoe road burner then a heavier oil may suit you, but the only way is to try oils of different viscosities.   There is no ‘right ‘ oil.

Personally, I use automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

At the end of this video, Jon Twist of University Motors suggests using 90 weight gear oil.

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Spitfire fuses

Here’s the problem: The hazard lights on my 1975 Triumph Spitfire work and blink but they don’t blink very bright and they blink very quick, so i decided to clean my fusebox and fuses.

• In the top position I have a BUSS/AGC 20A
• In the middle position, a Lucas 35A (17.5 amps continuous)
• and in the bottom position,  a  BUSS/UGC 20A

So while I was cleaning the fuses, I broke the Lucas fuse and wondered if I should change them all.
And as the previous owner had installed the fuses, I wondered should I replace them all with Lucas fuses?

Some say yes, read this article about fuses, http://snic-braaapp.org/itech02.htm#Fuses

Some say no, check out my discussion with Howard from AllExperts.com, http://www.allexperts.com/user.cgi?m=6&catID=1459&expID=79865&qID=4962064

If you have an opinion on this, please let me know

Update: This problem is solved. Here’s what I did. After tinkering with the fuse box (making sure fuse was getting electricity on both sides), cleaning the hazard switch (making sure it was grounded), cleaning the hazard lights (cleaning light and making sure ground was clean) and buying a new flasher relay (Flasher 552) my hazards are working great. I’m thinking it was the flasher relay unit that was the problem. You can buy it from NAPA for 5$.